1770

The past few days has been spent staying in the camping grounds at the Town of 1770. So named because Lt. James Cook came ashore here in May 1770 on his voyage up the east coast of Australia in the "Endeavour". This was Cook's second landing in Australia. It also marks the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef.

Here we are, all enjoying a coffee . . . mmmmmmm!

The view from the cafe

There is a great restaurant and cafe here known as "The Tree since 1770" (not that it's been here since then as the town on 1770 is a relatively new development) and we can certainly recommend the coffee and food . . . and with a great outlook over Bustard Bay.

We kayaked around here (What yer reckon, Scott?)

1770 is also great for kayaking. John and I kayaked around the headland from Agnes Water surf beach into Bustard Bay inlet (about a 7 km paddle) which lies on the northern edge of 1770.

The plan for tomorrow (Tuesday 31 August - last day of winter) is to head down to Hervey Bay and stay there for a few days.

Three Easy Steps to Fold an ALDI Portable Shower/toilet:

STEP 1. In the upright position push in one corner so it becomes a single flat panel.

STEP 2. Holding edge of each wall near the bottom, lift it upright

STEP 3. Twist into a figure eight so it comes together into one neat circle, . . . then . . . into the . . . carry . . . bag . . . ummm . . . let's try that again . . .

STEP 3. Twist into a figure eight so it comes together into one . . . neat . . . circle, ummm, errrrrrr,

. . . we'll try that just once more . . .

STEP 3. Twist into a figure eight so it comes together into one . . . neat . . . circle, ummm, let try that again . . . RRRRRRGRRRRAHHHHH!

OK, John, if you're so smart YOU DO IT!

. . . then pack into the carry bag.

(ALDI sells some really STUPID things!!)

Back in the Temperate Zone

Clairview campsite

Leaving Midge Point (Thursday 26 August) we continued the southern push. Next stop, Clairview where the highway clips the coast before heading inland for good stretch.  Another free camp spot with toilets and good mobile phone coverage.

The coast at Clairview - a long haul to the water at low tide

Something to behold up this way is the tide range and the flat grades of the beaches. At low tide you can walk forever to get to the water's edge. A fellow I was talking to here said he walked out at low tide and it took him half an hour before he was in ankle deep water . . . and I could believe it.

Tropic of Capricorn monument

After spending three weeks in the tropics we are now back in the temperate zone; we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, i.e. Rockhampton, on Friday.  Lunch was had in the botanical gardens in Rocky and an enjoyable stroll through the gardens. Some (John) even ventured into the zoo.

Calliope River

Next stop: another free camp at the Calliope River Rest Area near Gladstone.  Great spot with plenty of room despite there being many caravans, campervans, etc. The river looked good for kayaking and even had a sign warning of the presence of crocodiles just to make any river trip more exciting.

Di testing our ALDI portable toilet/shower

While toilets are provided hot showers are not - but does that deter the well seasoned camper? NO! Not when we have our ALDI special portable foldaway shower/toilet. Di even managed to get her hot shower despite the lack of facilities . . . and as for folding away our ALDI special portable foldaway shower/toilet in three easy steps . . . well, that's another matter.

The Whitsundays

Wow, what a great location!  Yesterday (Tuesday 24 August) we cruised (with 40+ other passengers) the Whitsunday Islands on board the "Reefjet".  First stop was Cataran Bay on Border Island about a one hour cruise from Airley Beach passing plenty of beautiful scenery on the way. Here we snorkelled in clear aqua-coloured water on a superb day over coral with a variety of colourful fish.  Unfortunately, there were little bities in the water that singled out Di and Joyce so their stay in the water was short lived.

Cataran Bay, Border Island

Next stop Hill Inlet on Whitsunday Island, the largest island in the Whitsunday group. This little bay was scattered throughout by boats of many shapes and sizes.  After being ferried ashore in a rubber duckie we took a short walk to a lookout overlooking Whitehaven Beach - that classic pure white sand beach of Ken Duncan fame that they say is the third most photographed place in Australia - after the Sydney Opera House and Uluru.  It is easy to understand why - the view over Whitehaven is truly magnificent!

Whitehaven Beach from Hill Inlet Lookout

We spent the rest of our cruise time swimming and sunbaking on Whitehaven Beach.  The southern end of the beach looked like a marina with many boats anchored off-shore enjoying the beautiful weather and the great location. Then back to Airley Beach arriving there just before dusk. A wonderful day out!

The marina at Airlie Beach

Perils of First Time Nomadding Pt II

1. When travelling over gravel roads and cattle grids be sure to check under your caravan for things that just may have come lose.

Van water tank ready to make an exit.

2. Beware of free campsites with the name "Funny Dunny Park".  There may be more than the dunny that's funny there and you may feel you're in "Deliverance Country".

Funny Dunny Park - just south of Ayr

3. Before hopping in for a shower at night in a caravan park amenities block check the light switch. It's not the greatest experience in life to be under the shower all lathered up and the lights go out because the timed light switch should have been press BEFORE entering your shower.

Wednesday, 25 August 2010

Our Midge Point campsite

At present we are staying at Midge Point, a small coastal village between Proserpine and Mackay at the southern end on the Whitsundays. With a name like Midge Point we had our reservations about staying here but our friends, John and Joyce, have stayed here before and assured us it was a great place to stay.  The van park here, unlike others we have stayed in over the past couple of weeks, has plenty of trees, is spacious, not crowded and we have managed to find a quiet spot by ourselves just a short walk to the beach. We have been here since Sunday night and head off tomorrow down towards Mackay.

Gould Island

Just off the coast here is a small island known as Gould Island. This island is a little over 4 km out and just too tempting not to paddle out in our kayaks.  So last Monday morning with fine weather and almost no breeze John and I paddled out to explore this desert island. The paddle took just over 50 minutes and I tried a little snorkelling out there. Not great for snorkelling as there is no coral only a basalt rock reef surrounding the island with no plant growth and few fish. Heading back we saw a dugong (or was it a crocodile?) and a leopard shark and a number of rays.

Friday, 20 August

Hinchinbrook Island from Cardwell jetty

Friday was spent exploring Hinchinbrook Island just off the coast at Cardwell, approximately halfway between Cairns and Townsville. The entire Hinchinbrook Island was created a national park in 1932 and is the largest island national park in Australia.

Heading our from Port Hinchinbrook

On board the "Hinchinbrook Explorer II"

From Port Hinchinbrook (a Keith Williams (of "Seaworld" fame) development) on the mainland at Cardwell we took the "Hinchinbrook Explorer II" across to the island, about an hour's cruise. Transferring to an aluminium tender we then continued the journey through winding mangrove creeks to the boardwalk on the north eastern corner of the island.  From here it was an easy 20 minute walk to Ramsay Bay - the classic tropical island beach.

Ramsay Bay with Mount Bowen shrouded in cloud

Cassowaries, Crocs and Cooktown

Cooktown from Grassy Hill

While at Cape Tribulation we headed up to Cooktown for a couple of days leaving the vans at Cape Trib. The coastal road, known as the Bloomfield Track, runs through some marvellous coastal rainforest and crosses a number of pristine streams and road is recommended for 4WD vehicles only - some grades on the road were 33%!  The road joins a more conventional road at the Bloomfield River and the Aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal. The trip to Cooktown covers some 100 km and passes some great coastal scenery, waterfalls and waterholes.

Archers Point - south of Cooktown

A few kms before you get to Cooktown there is an amazing little pub called the "Lion's Den" - a real "must stop".  The pub claims a history dating back 120 years and it is fascinating to have a wander inside - writing all over the walls from passers-by and crazy signs adorning the place - "Keep your dog outta my bar I'll keep my bullets outta your dog!", etc.

The Lion's Den verandah

Cooktown is fascinating and full of history.  James Cook managed to sail the crippled "Endeavour" about 40 km from the reef to the river inlet of present-day Cooktown to repair the ship in order to continue his exploration of the east coast of Australia and then back to England. The ship was beached near the river mouth and the hull repaired in three weeks although, due to unfavourable weather conditions, they remained in Cooktown much longer. We actually had breakfast in the "1770" restaurant which is located on the bank only a 100 metres or so from the actual spot where the "Endeavour" was beached in June 1770.

Croc at Bloomfield Falls

On our way back to Cape Trib we stopped at Bloomfield Falls.  We were discussing the possibility of a swim in the river when the sight of a nice big crocodile in the middle of the river sunning himself on a rock decided the question without any further discussion!

A cassowary in the rainforest

Further along the trek back home we came across a cassowary on the road.  We weren't quite quick enough to get a good photo of it as it darted quickly into the rain forest never to be seen again.

Cape Tribulation

What a great place, Cape Trib!  We arrived here last Friday (13 August) from Cairns staying at the Cape Trib Camping Grounds. Our van site was all of 100 metres from the beach. The weather was wonderful for the four days we were here.  We kayaked, snorkelled, swam a mountain pool and even had a barbeque breakfast on the beach - ahhh, living in paradise is just wonderful! Di, Graeme and Carol even managed to kayak around Cape Tribulation itself - what a wonderful experience even though it took Di out of her comfort zone.

Kayaking

Breakfast on the beach

Slummin' it at the Cape

The Cape gets its name from James Cook's 1770 voyage in the "Endeavour" as it was out from here that the voyage's "tribulations started".  The "Endeavour" hit the reef to the north east of here, the hull was holed and nearly the ship nearly sunk.

Mossman Gorge

Before heading further north to Cape Tribulation we stopped to check out Mossman Gorge some 70 km or so north of Cairns. This area consists of fast flowing creeks strewn about with large granite boulders and bordered by lush tropical rainforest.

A small shuttle bus takes you from the carpark up to the walking trails (about 1 km) of the Gorge. A short walk follows the creek where there are numerous viewing areas along the watercourse - very picturesque and plenty of things to photograph.

Mossman Gorge Creek

Snorkelling on the Reef

Last Wednesday (11 August) was our day for snorkelling on the Reef. Unfortunately, it was not the best of days for such an activity - windy, light rain occasionally and cool.

We had to be at the marina at 7.30am (an early start) and then we were off to Michaelmas Cay and Paradise Reef, about a two hour journey on the catamaran "Passions of Paradise".  A wonderful array of fish and coral, especially at Paradise Reef, was to be experienced.  A great lunch was provided with good size prawns on offer.

After our time at Paradise Reef, only a short (15 mins) run from Michaelmas Cay, we headed back to Cairns arriving at the marina at about 5pm.  Despite the cold and grey it was a great day out.  Next time, however, we'll insist on a sunny cloudless day before venturing out.

The good ship "Passions of Paradise"

Di and Joyce snorkelling on Michaelmas Cay

Perils of First Time Nomadding

1. There may be a very good reason for a "free campsite" being free.

Typical free campsite dunny (Rating: minus 21/2 stars)

2. Never take a back road in a unfamiliar Queensland town and go through a "Give Way" sign post, especially in front of a Queensland police paddy wagon.

3. The old saying "Might is right" especially applies to road trains when travelling along "Development Roads" in North Queensland.

4. Do not expect a near-new caravan to stay unscathed when travelling on the Charters Towers to Forty Mile Scrub National Park road.

Where's the support foot? Definitely there before we left!

5. You can build yourself a caravan TV aerial at little or no cost - but there can be some drawbacks.  It can take up to 5 hours to find that right position for a good signal.

A "GG Special" TV aerial arguing with a tree

6. Remember the ad - "Oils ain't oils", well, it also applies to firewood.  Beware using Cooktown Ironwood for firewood - it could be the last campfire you ever experience!  Highly toxic. Surveyors used Cooktown Ironwood trees for survey markers as they knew they would not be used for firewood nor chopped down for cattle fodder . . . surveyors are VERY WISE people!

Saturday, 7 August 2010

Cairns at last!

Cairns campsite

Finally arrived in Cairns, Saturday afternoon. Booked in to the Cairns Holiday Park which near the city centre and within easy walk of the Botanical Gardens.

Windy Hill Wind Farm

On the way to the coast morning tea was had at Innot Hot Springs (hot water in the creek with steam rising to prove it!).  Also passed Windy Hill Wind Farm at Ravenshoe - spectacular to see and hear the wind turbines in action on a wind-blown misty hill. Then came the long descent onto the coastal plain from the Atherton Tablelands with Di kissing the ground when we finally reached the bottom.

Friday, 6 August 2010

The next night was spent staying at Undarra Volcanic National Park which boasts the largest lava flow from a single volcano in the world. With our trusty ranger, Chris, we took a guided tour of the lava tubes - about a two hour guided walk through a couple of tubes.  Absolutely fascinating! Ranger-man Chris amazed us with the geology and botany of the area - beware of the Cooktown Ironwood tree!.

Lava tube Undarra Volcanic National Park

Ranger-man Chris

Thursday, 5 August 2010

In Central Queensland there are many camp sites on TSRs following many of the main roads.  Fletchers Creek just north-west of Charters Towers is one and that is where we camped Thursday night.  We couldn't believe how many van were parked there!  Someone told us that once when they were there they counted over 90 vans scattered along the creek bank.  It was a regular van city!  So we searched back along the road for a quieter spot and found one right next to a watehole. Even tried to catch a fish - without luck.

The bridge over Fletchers Creek

Our campsite